Balmain Fall 2025: From Hard Ice Cream to Soft Serve
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Like Demna at Balenciaga and other long-serving creative directors, Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing has been typecast for a certain silhouette and fashion attitude. With his fall collection, the designer set out to prove that a woman can express confidence and boldness without jutting anvil shoulder pads, without a Brink’s truckload of gold bullion, and without stiff, densely embroidered minidresses. He even included zebra patterns, which founder Pierre Balmain apparently used, as if to reinforce that he can change his stripes. (He took a pause from his beloved Breton sailor tops.) “I would say this collection is about cocooning,” Rousteing related backstage. “There’s a softness that I’m really proud of…. For me, it’s the beginning of a new era.” You May Also Like The designer had already begun plying gentler, simpler styles for pre-fall, and he’s working with a host of new creative collaborators as part of a broader strategy to streamline — and broaden — the brand’s products and collections. The voluptuous rib-knit sweaters and dresses stood out in this collection, slouchy and bat-winged — worn with the attitude of a hoodie, hands tucked into kangaroo pockets. Extreme scrunch boots gave them a certain oomph. Coats were imposing and slouchy, in round, oval and pointier origami shapes, occasionally swamping the young models. Outsized lapels and wide sleeves added some drama. Gray cashmere is certainly new fashion territory for Rousteing, who added a little fierceness by cinching a robe-like gray coat in the middle with a wide belt, echoing the design of Balmain’s new Anthem bag. The footwear did no favors to the clothes, or the models. Loosely draped leather pumps, resembling crumpled dishrags around the foot, added unnecessary bulk to the feet, while the tall stovepipe boots looked as stiff as, well, stovepipes. Rousteing is clever, driven and resourceful. For Balmain’s new era, he just needs to work out a few kinks, softly, softly. Celebrity Gallery 14 Photos View Gallery
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